Founded in 1865 by the Grand Lodge of the State of Louisiana Free and Accepted Masons, the Masonic Cemetery expresses a character distinct from the Catholic cemeteries that dominate the city. It is known for its many unusual, elaborate tombs, a reputation due in part to the cemetery’s communal nature: members of lodges pooled resources to purchase large group tombs. Occupying two oddly shaped city blocks, the cemetery is triangular in plan, with Conti Street bisecting it. The triangular footprint of the bordering streets overlaid with the cemetery’s angular internal walkways mimics the Masonic emblem of the square and compass. Cast-iron picket fences enclose its two distinct sections, while oak allées line its northern and western edges. Tombs are compactly arranged in rows parallel to Bienville Street, with a wide, paved promenade cutting through the center to provide access to smaller walkways between rows.

We stop at Morning Call Cafe for a restroom stop. Cafe au lait and beignets can be purchased here.

On the former site of Charity Hospital’s paupers’ field, this ominous but oddly affecting circle of tombs holds the bodies of 85 unclaimed victims of the 2005 levee failures and the names of others who perished. It’s an unfussy place that’s easily missed, the better for contemplative solitude, perhaps. Surrounded by a storm-shaped series of pathways, the memorial does its duty in giving one substantial pause.