We will go deep into Monzen-Nakacho’s backstreets, stopping into tiny storefronts and then out-of-the-way izakayas and bars to meet the artisans who keep the neighborhood’s bellies – and glasses – full and taste culinary delights unique to the neighborhood. More than an izakaya crawl, on this walk we’ll also plunge into the spiritual side of sake drinking and the place it holds in Japanese culture and religion, tasting some very special renditions of Japan’s traditional spirit. We’ll start our day off with a visit to one of the neighborhood’s classic spots for sushi and fukagawa meshi, a local specialty made of clams served over rice. As we head towards the Fudodo Temple to catch one of the daily fire ceremonies, we’ll make a detour to visit a bustling shopping street that dates back to the early 20th century, where we’ll pop into several old-time food shops and have a taste of a variety of artisanal specialties, including anju made at a bakery that traces its roots to 1850.

After paying our respects at the temple and taking in the multisensory ceremony there, we’ll do as the locals do and start heading to the neighborhood’s watering holes, where the drinks are accompanied by expertly crafted bites. As the afternoon turns into evening, we’ll visit a sake specialist, stop by an oyster shucker who’s doing his part to help fisherman recover from the lingering effects of the devastating 2011 tsunami by buying his bivalves directly from them and then squeeze our way into a hidden tachinomi, or “standing bar,” where the small kitchen miraculously turns out edible wonders. Before we finish our time together, we’ll hit several more spots where we’ll rub elbows with the locals and get an even deeper understanding of what makes Monzen-Nakacho the magical place that it is.