Pick-up from Amman Hotel by private air-conditioned vehicle with a driver who doubles up as your guide. Drive the Desert Castles originally built by the Caliphs of the Umayyad dynasty as rural retreats and hunting lodges. Hear tales about this powerful dynasty, the first Muslim rulers of the Arab kingdom, including fascinating snippets about their extravagance and debauchery. As you travel, feel free to tell your driver if there's a castle you want to see more of. Pull up at UNESCO-listed Quseir' Amra, one of east Jordan's most famous castles. Once a hunting palace of the Umayyads, this splendidly restored edifice is graced with 8th-century frescoes showing decadent scenes of nude women, wine, and parties. Continue to Qasr Al -Kharanah, an imperious 2-level fortress standing in a huge plain. Thought to have been built on Roman foundations, this evocative castle exudes intrigue and displays a rich array of Mesopotamian, Arabic, and Greek architectural influences. Finally, head for Qasr Al-Azraq, originally an Umayyad hunting retreat and once used as a headquarters by T.E. Lawrence, the 20th-century British soldier and Arab Revolt leader perhaps more famously known as Lawrence of Arabia. Wander around the sun-burnished courtyards, towers and mosque, continue to the Castle of Ajloun, built in the time of Saladin to defend against Crusader armies. See the murder holes used by the invaders, and admire the stunning views of the Jordan Valley from the towers. Drop off at Amman Hotel